The Cathedral Ranges
The Range from North to South (Day1)
There are many short walks and circuit walks outlined on the
Walking Track Guide but one they left off, was off course to walk
the entire length of the range, which is exactly what I did with a
couple of friends at the start of December (1996). Since neither of
them hopefully have a means of retribution on the internet let me
introduce them:
Doug "I feel the cold" Daws
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Mark "Are you sure this is
the right track?" Aufflunk
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Since I had the only camera there are no pictures of me on this
trip (excellent planning never goes astray).
With
two cars between us, we parked one at Sugarloaf Saddle carpark at
the end of the walk and then drove back to Ned's Gully to start the
walk. With a light pack it is possible to do the walk in a day but
we decided to do it over two, with an overnight stop at the
Farmyard. After a short, steep walk our packs decided that they
needed a rest so we set them down to detour out along 20 Fathom
Ridge for our first view. The Ned's Gully track is the easiest track
up to the ridge, but even it has moments when the gradient gets a
"little annoying".
At
Ned's Saddle there are a number of options, and since we had a lot
of time we headed north to the Little Cathedral so that we could
really walk the full length of the range. We had lunch at the saddle
between the "Cathedrals" and then walked the short track
up to the Little Cathedral. Mark ruined this shot by not obliging
and standing right out at the edge.
In
hind sight the walk to the Little Cathedral was possibly not a good
move psychologically, as we turned around only to see the long steep
walk that lay ahead on the way to Cathedral North. As it turned out,
though, the walk to the top seemed much shorter than we expected
although it was certainly steep enough. The trig station is on
Cathedral North and offers a clearer view than from The Cathedral.
From
there it was on to The Cathedral and down along the ridge towards
our campsite. Our map had a note for this section that it was narrow
and rocky. It was right, it was narrow and rocky, with a steep drop
on one side and a cliff (and great views) on the other. Eventually
we came to the spot that I was waiting for, the view along the ridge
all the way to Sugarloaf and beyond. Our whole walk was their in
front of us, all the way to the knife edge of rock (the Buttresses
and the Razorback) sticking up along the ridge to the Sugarloaf,
which seemed a lot steeper than any other Sugarloaf I had seen.
As we proceeded along the ridge there seemed to be one question
that kept on coming up... "Are you sure this is the
track?"... together with a few snide remarks about a certain
walk up Mt Difficult. Just
as the warnings say, the track is not always clear in the more
barren and rocky areas and we kept a lookout for the little orange
(supposedly red according to the guide) arrows nailed to the trees
marking the track. These orange arrows are also useful for walking
at night as they are reflective and show up quite clearly by
torchlight.
We
eventually reached the Farmyard with enough daylight left to
collapse for a while before walking down along Jawbone Creek to find
water and then set up camp and cook dinner. All in all a very
civilised pace for a day's walking, with the rigours of negotiating
the terrain making up for the short distance we had covered. As this
was the first walk that either of us had done for a while there was
bound to be a few things that either got left behind or that weren't
quite "right". Mark's powdered milk refused to dissolve, I
forgot to add the coconut cream to my rice before it had absorbed
all of the water and I left the jar of plums in port on the kitchen
table. Having opened the can of coconut cream I felt obliged to
consume it and tried spreading some on a chocolate based, choc chip
biscuit. Bingo, a new desert/ breakfast recipe is born. (A later
modification of this recipe was trialled at Wilsons
Prom, to the approval of the wrens.) With open fires prohibited
on the range some of our cooking plans had to be modified but we
managed to get by with a trangia and a shellite stove.
As the sun went down the birds took it in turns to call out to
each other, and as if they had a point to prove, the lyre birds let
loose with their repertoire of every bird call of every bird in the
area and a few noises that sounded more like car alarms than
anything else.
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