The Fortress
The
Fortress is perhaps one of the most spectacular regions of the
Grampians in terms of rock formations. There are two ways to get to
it, from the east and the west. The western approach is along a
track marked on the map as "position doubtful". In other
words the track exists, sort of, and goes along here, sort of. The
eastern approach is much shorter, with a walking track at the end of
a small 4WD track just off the Victoria Range Road. It takes only 20
minutes to reach the base of the Fortress, much to the disgust of
the person I met who had spent 3 hours navigating his way up from
the west along an overgrown track.
There
are cliffs and caves along the walking track around the Fortress and
at one point it is possible to follow a small gap in the cliffs up
for a view. This is also the first glimpse you get of the Fortress,
and from here it doesn't look all that big, there's just no visible
way up. Back to the track and north to the steep gully leading down
between two large masses of sandstone. The Fortress is popular with
rock climbers and there are several tracks leading around the base
of the Fortress. It is necessary to navigate using a map to avoid
following one of these dead end tracks. Eventually you reach the
creek and follow this down to a large overhang/ shallow cave that is
obviously used as an unofficial campsite. It's about the only flat,
open place around and the dry, sandy floor of the cave means you
don't have to set up a tent (although it helps to keep the
mosquitoes away).
To
the west of the creek, it is possible to walk along the flat, open
rock faces up to the top of the next ridge and one of the most
impressive views in the Grampians. It's marked on the map but there
are no tracks. The easiest way up is to get onto the rock face where
you first get to the creek and then head south, zig zagging you way
up along the open rock between the trees. From here you can see why
it is called the Fortress. Mt Abrupt may have cliffs that are higher
than this, but nothing else in the Grampians has the forceful
presence of the Fortress. Not only does it tower above you but it
appears to lean towards you, threatening to crush you like the march
fly you just swatted from your ankle. All around you the bush is
punctuated by open rock faces, large columns of sandstone and deep
rocky gorges.
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